Year: 2016

Lagos is a wonderful, well-protected harbour with lots of room and water to at least a draft of 3 meter. But try to arrive and enter at half tide going in – it will provide you with a bit more wiggle room. You need to pass through a long channel and a bridge before you are in the marina. There are lots of restaurants in the area, as well as one of the best chancelleries and boat yards in this part of the world. For this reason, many cruisers spend the winter here and never leave.
The town is beautiful and dates back to the Romans with small streets, restaurants and shops – but overall it is a very touristic scene with the English charter market dominating. Of restaurants, we can recommend Camil and Sao Roque both for their views and their fish, which is better than the already great fish, one can enjoy here in Portugal. Lagos is also a really great harbour to leave your boat for as long as you need – and that we did.

We went to Athens for work and pleasure. The stories about the Greek situation seems far away, when you visit this wonderful city. We arrived on the 20^th of September, just in time for celebrating Marie’s birthday. We worked and took time off to enjoy San Torini, the old quarters in Athens and of course Acropolis. I am always taken by the greatness of the past in Greece and ask myself the question – what happened, what fortune changed all of the ancient greatness into modern Greece?

Soon back to Lagos, realizing the beauty of flying across Europe – it was time to say goodbye to Martinho and Ingrid, who own and run the marina.

From here we sailed to Vilamoura, another great marina and wonderful city. There is a fine little fish restaurant behind the marina office, which is a must to visit, called Tasquinho O’Manel. Vilamoura won our hearts and we intend to return. Lots of activities, great supermarkets, nice and secure marina, and great beaches near the marina and the old Quartiers. But we had to leave after already having extended with another day. But soon very soon, we will be in the Med – another dream will come true, passing the Gibraltar Rock under our own keel.

We left Vilamoura behind setting a course for Ilha da Culatra, which is an island in the Faro Delta, where time stopped thirty years ago. Life is slow and pleasant with a ferry twice a day to Faro, bringing both the occasional tourist and opportunity for commuting to work. It seems to be a nice life without many of the challenges we create for ourselves, but also some of the fun. We slept quietly on anchor in the bay and left early in the morning with the first light, together with the fishermen.

Our course was set towards Cadiz and we had a wonderful 70 nm sail, which took us into the public marina in Cadiz with the last light. A spectacular entrance with old city walls and watch towers. We moored in a terrible marine outside the city, but with our bikes it was not a problem at all and the beauty and historic significance of Cadiz, overshadowed the inconvenience of the marina. In short, we really loved Cadiz with its narrow streets, fortresses, restaurants and very friendly people. We spent a wonderful day touring on our bikes and saw it all. What would we do without our bikes?! The adventure radius increases and the legs feel much better in the evening. We used Lonely Planet and it took us around in Cadiz, but there were also marked walking paths in different colors, which were a hit – thanks to the tourist office, which Marie visited first, as usual.

A little disturbance in the flawless weather we had enjoyed for weeks was expected on Wednesday and Thursday, so we took off on Tuesday for Gibraltar. It was an exciting sail because we had to sail into the Med, where The Atlantic and The Med meet. At some point we were cruising with the tide at 13.5 knots, the fastest we have sailed with North Star and it became our fastest passage since we left Scandinavian in June 2016.

It is a special feeling to enter a British outpost and enter the Med. It felt like a moment worth celebrating, so we chilled the champagne, but we were so exhausted that it stayed there.

We spent a couple of days in Gibraltar arriving on the 11th of October and left on the 14th, after a visit from home. Kristian which sailed with us for a couple of weeks up north and his girlfriend Josefine, spent a night. But on the 14th in bright sunshine and the wind on the aft starboard quarter, we rounded the Rock and sailed into the Med – it was a wonderful feeling.

Our first stop was after a 30 nm sail to Marbella, to meet friends and find a town we visited ten years ago. Nice marina, but with limited space for our size and a somewhat shallow depth. Again we did not find the really big boats, but were told that they were in Puerto Banus 8 miles before Marbella. The harbor master is friendly and flexible, and we enjoyed our stay. We visited Sevilla and Ronda in a rented car from costasbiler.dk, which were very helpful and service minded. The drive into the Sierra Nevadas to Seville is easier from Cadiz. But still it only took us less than 3 hours, via the beautiful mountain roads and we were rewarded with a visit to one of the most beautiful cities we have seen, since we left home. We stayed overnight in a nice little three-star hotel near the Cathedral, which provided parking and great rooms and service.
We visited the Cathedral, the old town, Alcatar the palace, and a few old mansions and art exhibitions. We also had Tapas again, and the best so far. The bar is named El Pasaje and we had tapas in the bar, but they also have a restaurant next door. Same kitchen, different pricing.

We left at lunch time to reach Ronda, a Mauri town build on top of a cliff in the middle of the mountains with the oldest bull fighting arena, at least in Spain.
It is one of these places which Orson Welles and Hemingway among others have made famous – but be aware of the tourist buses…

We left Marbella to reach Marina del Este on the 18th of October, a 60 nm run on engine. It seems that the wind has disappeared completely for a couple of weeks or at least as long as we can read the forecast. We are grateful for our engine, but it is boring.

We did not have any expectation for this next stop, but it is a great little marine. Charming and friendly, but nasty in bad weather from other directions than N and E. We had no wind and a wonderful stay – reminding us of the Nordic Archipelago harbour’s. We were also taken care of by friends from Denmark, which showed us the area and took us into their homes. Fantastic hospitality and we enjoyed it. It seems that this small jewel, is where a number of our friends have decided they want to spend their spare time in the sun and in beautiful surrounding – and outside the reach of the tourist hordes. We stayed until the 20th and left early for an anchorage 65 nm east around the corner from Capo de Geta. A long day on engine, but we spend time writing, reading and preparing – so not too bad. The weather is still very nice and warm, so we keep working on the tan!

We left early morning for a beautiful anchorage just after Capo De Gato and arrived in the dark following the coast guard chasing illegal fishing boats.

The following day we reached for Cartagena, where friends would come from Denmark to visit. Cartagena is a great town, large but not to large and well worth a visit to see the Roman and Turkish influence. It is a very well protected Harbor but in southerly winds it becomes uneasy. We were into both marinas and choose the one at starboard, being slightly more quiet and modern. A great restaurant, La Catedral, need to book – next to the Roman Theatre.

From here we wanted to go to Santa Pola and left in brisk conditions on the 25th. Mid-afternoon the wind died and the nearest harbor was Torrevieja, which is spoken badly about on noonesite.com (A visit in 2012), so our expectations were not high. But more often than not, we have been pleasantly surprised. Torrevieja is a wonderful large marina – one on port and one on starboard. We choose the new marina on SB, which is swell free. Rodney, who is the business manager, is great and super customer-focused, the marina is fantastic and its surroundings can deliver all services to a yacht.

We ended up leaving North Star in Torrevieja for the winter, well-covered and maintained so she hopefully is ready for our next season.

 

 

The bug was itching, so on the 12th of August we had to move on to the Galician Rias of northern Spain and they were just around the corner, behind Cap Finisterre and further down. We left in a brisk breeze and were hoping that it would last to Camarinas a short 30nm sail down the coast. But unfortunately, the high pressure took away all wind and we motored. Arriving late just before dark and in a lot of fog, we let the anchor out in the bay near Barolo and enjoyed the small mountains hidden in the fog and called it an early day. Carmarinas has a very well-protected bay and is a small sleepy fishing town with a few tourists.

On the 14.8, we finally arrived late afternoon to the famous Galician Rias after travelling close to 2000 nm since Copenhagen. We left Camarinas late morning in mist and light winds and sailed out hopeful about a nice windy sailing day. And it came and went after we used the code-0 for about 30 min. Then we motored in heavy fog right past the famous Cap Finisterre, which we did not see… a highlight which came and went. Further down we passed this treacherous point, which has taken so many ships in another time, before it all became easy with GPS, AIS and Radar.

We had decided to go into the Ria de Arousa, which is supposed to be the most beautiful and we anchored up in the bay of Rebeira, right outside the sailing club and finally the sky cleared, the fog was gone and it became a nice evening. Water was still cold either 14 or 17 degrees – discussion between Barolo, Margrethe and North Star. But North Star decided it was 18 and we started to swim in the morning and evenings. It was very refreshing – afterwards.

On the 16^th, the fog cleared again around noon and we sailed across the bay to Vila Nova. A small fishermen’s harbour, with a very helpful harbourmaster. Free wine at check in. The sun came out, and Michaela and Marie prepared a great day for us. Wine tasting at Martin Codax and later a visit to Cambados. We saw the wonderful little 16 century church, a tour around town in a ‘tuff tuff’ train and dinner at a great recommendation from the wine castle. The crews from Barolo, Margrethe and North Star were very complementary to the Admiral and deck hand.

Departure on the 17th, from Vila Nova to Isle de Cies with a departure around 12 when the fog cleared and nature prepared a wonderful sunny afternoon and a great sail down to one of the highlights of Galicia – the islands outside the coast. We had chosen Isle de Cies on Barolos recommendation and just after we left Vila Nova, we received the necessary cruising permit and were able to apply for an anchor permit, which is given immediately via the internet. (http://www.iatlanticas.es/) So with all paperwork in place, we sailed through the beautiful surroundings, which is much like the Swedish Archipelago. Arriving around 18, we dived into the crispy clear water, had drinks and dinner and went to bed watching the beautiful full moon and prepared for a rather uneasy night with a few anchor alarms and swells from the great Atlantic Ocean, which was hidden just behind the Island.

Morning broke and the sun brought us back to life and a wonderful sunrise around eight. We hiked around the Island and saw fantastic views and enjoyed the hiking. At least until I came into an unwilling combat with some Spanish youngsters, whom decided that they owned the track. We finished the day around five and wanted to swim before departure, but unfortunately the clear water was not so clear anymore and the weather was in a changing mood, so we sailed to Bayona.

Bayona is worth a stop – calm waters and beautiful location, but go to the Mote Real Marina on your starboard side or anchor in the bay. Much more attractive, as Puerto Deportive is half-finished, with no facilities.

We were sightseeing the town. The old quarters with its narrow streets, the small tavernas and restaurant and the walk in the impressive Castle from 1695. All well worth a visit, before we had a coffee in the hotel in the castle enjoying the stunning views together with the Spanish tourists, as it is the high season for summer vacation. Suddenly time had slipped away and it was late. We hurried back for some farewell drinks with our sailing friends since Guernsey and Cowes. Margrethe with Gitte and Klaus and Barolo with Helle, Heine and Hans. You meet and say farewell, until we meet in another harbor or on the AIS – we all share the love for the sea, the adventure, the camaraderie, and our boats. Margrethe and Barolo are heading towards Gran Canary to cross the Atlantic in December and we will stay in Ria de Vigo until Tuesday morning to get Michaela safely onboard a flight to Copenhagen. So many farewells…

So after a few days of sight seeing and sun bathing in the the Bay of Bayona the alarm clock went of six o’clock on the 23^rd, and off we went to Vigo airport to send Michaela on her flight to Copenhagen via Madrid. All worked well, despite it being difficult to say goodbye after so many great days. When we came back to North Star it was not quit the same most of the day.

After fueling with cheap Spanish diesel, we sailed off to Porto hoping for great weather, but got thick fog and plenty of fishing pot floating around – it was a great sail wing on wing, but we had a sharp look out. We arrived into Porvoa de Varzim after 54 nm and Barolo was waiting for us and were very helpful arranging a berth and helping us in very heavy winds. Another nice day although it is strange to sail in fog. Everything goes very slow and noises disappear. Tomorrow we sail to Porto, just 12 nm to meet Benedicte and Carsten for a nice day.

We woke up to another dreadful morning, not the expectations you would have for Spanish summer, but as the thunder and rain disappeared by ten and we got going. Just a two hours sail to meet with Benedicte and Carsten in Marine Douro, which probably is the nicest marina we have visited since we left Copenhagen. A nice box, no swells and very quiet, with a friendly staff. Porto is fantastic, so after a drink, we walked to town to visit one of the many port wine houses on the south side of the Rio Dourne, which runs from deep in northern Spain and give room for many wine yards up through the valley. Cold winters and plenty of rain has given great ripe grapes for port since 1492. It closes at 18:00, so we were only in time for a taste at Churchill’s, which have a nice free deal for sailors from the marina. Back to the marina by five Euro taxi, and then steak from the freezer, which broke two days ago – we were having a feast.

The day after was a wonderful sparkling day with little wind and sun. We visited Grahams, the largest and most inviting port wine house, which gave us a wonderful tour and great tasting. Especially Carsten enjoyed. Later, we went for a leisurely walk and saw some of the highlights in Porto. A very old city, the second largest in Portugal. But very poor and with a remarkable lack of great buildings or anything else. That said, it is cozy and very pleasant with many great fish restaurants. The first Kings of Portugal settled here from 1289. Henriques, a warrior king, who won independence for Portugal and beat the Turks. He is widely celebrated and you will find his statue and picture around the city. In the evening, we went for a walk along the northern riverbank, where there are many restaurants and a very pleasant environment.

Carsten and Benedicte left for southern Spain and then home to Denmark and we awaited Mikael, a great Swedish boat builder, who has done many of the upgrades on our boat during the spring. Our KVH satellite system has not worked since the first upstart and our Locomarine is also very tricky and unstable, so he brought spares and solutions.

On the 27^th the plan was to depart, but the morning broke into fog and a funny feeling of not being quite ready to leave Porto. So we postponed departure and enjoyed the incoming sunshine and Porto. It was a great decision. We saw the monastery, the cathedral, the castle and walked in a much more pleasant part of the city, including lunch at Majestics. We ended at Taylors, sipping even more port win, before we headed home. All day we had been transported by Marie’s new taxi friend, which started by taking us to the supermarket then moved us around town – nice and friendly advice.

After a for no reason terrible night, we only left Porto by 07:45 to go south. No fog and no wind, but 20 knots from N/NW after lunch was expected. We hadn’t decided how far we would go today, either Foz 60 nm or Nazare 90 nm. It is difficult to sail in the night, as the many fishing buoys are dangerous for the rudder and propel. We decided for Foz, as the winds were building and we had some difficulty stabilising the sails in the downwind condition and 2-3 m waves.

Just before arrival, the Captain actually did listen to the Admirals advice and did decide to keep the main on a preventer and the cutter on a pole, both strapped down. It was maybe one knot slower, but stable and the slabbing went away. This is going to be our new setup in low down winds. Foz has a very easy entry and plenty of water + 4 meters in low water. It is a great overnight marina.

We left early with the first light at 06:30 with the course set for Cascais, 90 nm away. As usual at the Atlantic coast, swells in the morning, with very light or no winds – and the building after lunch towards 15 to 25 knots. It was finally a beautiful day and we made quick progress towards Capo Roca’s impressive cliffs wavering 150 meters over the ocean surface, where the depths are a few kilometers. We passed through the underwater gorge at Nazarene, going down to 5 kilometers, which gives uneasy seas and reaches down to the impressive Roca. Shortly after we took down the sails as the wind died 1 nm south of the Roca, we reached an acceleration zone and the wind went quickly up to 35 knots. It became dark and the waves were building. Again our friends on Margrethe and Barolo were looking out for us and guided us outside the worst fishing buoys and we continued 5 nm south of Cascais, before turning back and in towards the shore, with protection for the waves and the wind. At times it was violent, but Marie and I are now a very solid team and North Star is taking well care of us – so it was really another good challenge. At 23.15, we were well anchored in the outskirts of the bay, in 10 meters of water and safely away from the dark shadows with anchor lights.

This was the start of our stay in ‘little paradise’ as Antonio, a good friend of ours in Lisbon, labels Portugal. Long lazy days, with sun and some refreshing wind, reversing between a day or two in the marina at 59 € a night and anchoring in the bay at no cost except the usage of generator and water maker, to provide us with plenty of water and electricity. North Star is keeping up well, although appearances are less stellar, than when we left Denmark, where Niels, Morten and Dennis had done a marvelous job at making here look her best. We probably need a larger engine for the dinghy, as Marie gets very wet in the swells, when we sail into them and not over, but life is very good.

While we were lazy and enjoying the Spanish summer, Marie is the perfect tourist guide taking us around in Cascais, Sintra and Lisbon. Cascais is very close to a Portuguese Rivera town with large houses and some history. It is recommended to see some of the old houses, the marine museum and the old town. It is a charming and very pleasant place and the people are very helpful. In Galicia, English was not spoken, but since we arrived in Portugal, nearly everyone we met have a fine command of English.

Antonio invited us on a great evening, first drinks on the aft deck of North Star, then drinks at a bar, and then a local restaurant 5 km outside Cascais, which prepared the best meal we have had since leaving Denmark.

Lisboa is wonderful, especially the Joronimus Monastery from around 1540 is a must see. Also the Arab quarters and the old tramps, are well worth a visit. But be aware of number 15, it is known for pocket thief – we were told, after the fact! Yes, they succeeded to steal my wallet from my back pack. No harm was done, except all the hassle and the part about feeling really stupid.

On our last day touring Lisboa, we reached a state of overload and we are now officially the best guides on European cathedrals, but with no need for seeing more of them.

We also spent a pleasant day in Sintra, taking the train up into the low mountains behind Lisboa into the playground of the kings and queens of Portugal. Sintra was where royalty spent June to October from 1440 until 1910, where the last King was assassinated and the republic arrived to Portugal. It is a beautiful place with museums and six or seven very large mansions and palaces – but even on a Monday, very touristic. Some say a must see, probably, but be aware of the hordes of buses….

Lisboa and Cascais were fantastic and very enjoyable. It was the first time during our journey that we hit the warm southern summer, we had been looking forward to for so long. We have now been sailing since June 24^th and tomorrow we are heading to Copenhagen to work, visit friends and see the kids. It feels weird to leave North Star behind, and we are looking forward to returning to this very different life compared to the one we had grown accustom to. It is very different, more social and leisurely of course, but also in so many ways a challenge, as the sea and the weather never give you a break and you can only relax for a short time, before it comes back to surprise you. As long as you work hard on being well prepared, listen to the advice you get along the way, maintain the boat, and sail conservatively, it will all be smooth sailing. But if not, we have seen many examples of boats, which have been less fortunate than us and North Star. We have also realised that we need to move to the other side of the rainbow to find the adventure and the challenge. The further we sail from good old civilised Europe, the greater the challenge and that is where we will be heading.

Ten days later, we left on a wonderful morning from Cascais and Marie immediately found her spot in front of the mast and enjoyed the solitude of being back on the boat. When she returned from Copenhagen, she expressed what we both felt – nice to be home again. And shortly after this statement we signed up for ARC 2017 via Cap Verde..

Just using the last light, we entered into Sines – a huge pier and behind there an industrial harbour and behind again a small fishing harbour and tucked away in a corner a small but very pleasant marina. Fuel and water were plentiful and a couple of restaurants were ten minutes away on bikes, but uphill. Sines is a nice little fishing town with a few tourist and a fortress.

At the first light we continued towards Sagres our next longer stop, hoping for great conditions to round Cape St. Vincent and spent a few days on anchor in the bay of Sagres. Be aware when rounding Cape St. Vincent – as with all these Capes the wind and currents act up. When coming into Sagres and turning on the engine again after a long sail the power was nearly gone. Fortunately, it is not a big challenge when you anchor in a bay, more an issue when entering a small and narrow harbour. Anyway, a few phone calls to Dennis and Erik set us off in the right direction. Especially Dennis from KKE, our local mechanic in Denmark, is extremely helpful and skilled. He is always willing to go that extra mile, which is so important if you are alone in strange waters somewhere in the world. Soon we changed all fuel filters, inspected the prop and a few other details and we were up and running again. Thanks for the help!

It is of course also a reminder of the sensitivity of the new common rail engines towards fuel supply – not a real problem in the Med if you are cautious, but when you arrive at more distant and isolated shores, fuel quality has a tendency to deter and then a rigorous regime of filtering needs to be used. We have chosen to install double Racor filter with a switch over function and a cleaning and polishing system, which allows us to move the fuel between our two tanks via other Racor filters. It is not 100% proof, but probably the best you can do.

Sagres was a highlight. Anchoring in a solemn bay in sun and wind during endless days. Followed by an early evening dinghy ride to the lonely fish restaurant at the beach, spending time watching the sun rise and set and swimming in the sea. No you are right – not much to do, and that is exactly the point. We were told that you had to check into the nearest harbor, but we did not and we were never contacted, before we checked into Lagos 30 nm east of Sagres.

After four days, the wind started to come back and we had to go to Lagos, as we were participating in a conference in Athens with YPO.

 

 

In a breeze we left Cowes around noon on the 25^th towards Studland Bay, which turned out to be a great recommendation from Belinda and Colin. A beautiful sail until we reached the famous Needles, where the wind accelerated to +30 knots on the nose and the swells quickly became uncomfortable. But arriving in the bay with the last light, meeting a couple of other boats and slowly calming down, making dinner and enjoying the moonlight on the hook – not bad at all!

In the morning of the 26^th, the course was set for Guernsey 110 nm away, and if you read about it in the Sailing Guide – it is a dangerous place you need to approach with care. But it was a fine day, with calm winds and we hit the different tidal streams reasonably – even though it was hard to keep course and speed when 5 knots of tide hit our port side for three hours. But we made it and passed Alderney, with an 8 knot tide with us and reflecting on the effects on the boat, if it had been against – and we arrived into Saint Peter Port at Guernsey early evening the 26^th of July. There was a line up, but we were directed to a mooring in the outer harbor, as boat number four from the floating dock. Not bad, but tricky and demanding for any boat.

This was Marie’s destination of choice and I enjoyed the chance to bunk diesel at 3 DKK – so we topped up North Star. But as you could expect with Marie, the next four days were very quickly filled up with tours of the island and visit to the many attractions. It is a beautiful island with plenty of rocky coast, as protection against the rough sea which surrounds. We did some hiking in the changing weather coming in on the back side of just another low in the English Channel. Of course the hiking had a purpose, we were walking in the rain and wind to get to five o’clock tea in a house in a beautiful small bay right at the ocean, Moulin Huet Bay Tearoom. We also saw Victor Hugo’s house and of course gardens and museums. It was a pleasant stay, but the weather was very Atlantic and I believe the reason for Guernsey making their local “Blue Bottle Gin”.

After four days, we sailed off towards Brest, with a short stop in Ropscoff where we arrived just a few hours ahead of an another gale, which kept us in Brest for way too long. A learn
ing was that if we had continued, we would have enjoyed a safe and comfortable journey – but at the time the forecast was conflicting, and we choose the safer option. That is the right choice and we would do it again, but five days in Brest was a little long, because on the other side of the Bay of Biscay summer was waiting! Instead we were stuck in wind and rain, but spending a great time with our friends from S/Y Margrethe and S/Y Barolo. The latter is a Danish boat we met, as we were fuelling in Guernsey and it turned out we would, as so often seen before, join forces for the next six weeks.

We were reading the weather forecast several times a day and talked to the locals and among ourselves, looking for the window, which could take us to the other side. The last couple of days the weather improved. But because of our choice to cross from Brest and not from Falmouth, we were forced to cross through a wave zone with very conflicting waves, where the Atlantic bottom raised from 4000 meters to 100 meters and this was known for large swells after gales. As cautious and inexperienced sailors, we thought it prudent to wait. On Thursday morning, when the swell conditions for the first 90 nm miles was forecasted to be between 2-3 meters and not 4-7 meters, we left with the early tide. Barolo first, North Star second and Margrethe, right after.

On North Star, the crew was Michaela, Marie and I – an all family crew. Kristian had to leave because of the commitments at home and we missed him. This crossing over the Bay of Biscay is well known for being very challenging and for some, dangerous as you run across and risk being caught short on a lee shore, without many option to get away. So it is safe to say, the crew was focused on the task at hand and were very well prepared.

The first day was long as the swell was of higher than forecasted and the wind was not strong enough to keep us sailing through the waves. So we motor-sailed and Michaela was slightly hit by seasickness for some hours. But towards the end of the afternoon the wind increased and we sailed through the night and the swells became manageable. When the stars and moon came up it helped us see. It was a fantastic experience. When the morning came the wind disappeared again and the Biscay turned into a mirror. We used the motor as  the last forecast we received before we left Brest, advised gale force easterly to south westerly Saturday afternoon the last 50 nm before arriving Coruna. Our ability to receive forecasts underway, disappeared as our satellite connections broke down right afte leaving Brest. So we were in a hurry, hence the motoring through the mirror ocean.

Around 11 o’clock accordng to the logbook, Marie observed a Blue whale and its baby just 50 m ahead of us – a little too close, but they passed right in front of us. Shortly after, our depth gauge moved from indefinite depth – more than 1000 meters to 3-4 meter. Yes, we don’t know, but it was probably a whale passing direct under us and then I turned around to look back and right behind us 4-5 of them were passing. A little scary – no quite a lot… but they are beautiful animals and to see them this close in their environment is nothing short of a dream come through.

As we pushed on and the boat settled into routines with watch, food and sleep, the wind came back and this time from North East. So with a little course correction to optimize our speed with the wind, we sailed through the night at speeds over 8 knots, even with slightly reefed sails. This trip, together with the German Bight trip has convinced Marie and I that North Star is more than capable to take care of us on our journey ahead. That is the one thing you do not want to doubt, when you are out here in the middle of the ocean, somewhat left to your survival efforts.

The second night I took the dog watch from four and had another fantastic night watching the Milky way, more shooting stars than ever before, and more importantly I spent most of this watch with our youngest daughter, Michaela.

Early morning, we did start to see the deadly coast of northern Spain, Coast a la Morte and we just reached into cover from the increasing easterly on our way into Coruna. We were tired and we were proud – we did it. As a family, missing Alexandra who had to work, we crossed the Bay of Biscay. I wrote on FB when the phones came to life, reflecting the proudness and sense of accomplishment:

Klokken er fem om morgenen og en fantastisk tur over Biscayen er ved at være slut. Vi er vel inde ved 0830 tiden. Det er stjerneklart med en del stjerneskud og vinden er mellem 20 og 25 knob. Båden skyder 8-9 knob gennem vandet og de første fyr er dukket frem af mørket. Det er magisk og en fantastisk fornemmelse af at nu er vi for alvor på vej og har bestået prøven gennem GermanBight og nu næsten Biscayen. At 10:15 on the 5^th of August, we were just before the entrance and we stopped a wonderful sail and dropped into the still cold, but much warmer water and enjoyed that we finally had reached summer and Spain – we thought… Barolo and Margrethe came in later during the dy and both of them met the developing gale, but arrived safely.

Coruna is exactly the kind of town you would like to meet when you first arrive to this northern part of a very diverse country. The marina is right in the city, very close to the large city square, which is in many ways the center of the town. You can eat tapas every night for endless nights and never need to come back to the same restaurant. For sailors there are supermarkets close to the marina, data phone cards on the pedestrian street and a very helpful harbor master, who even spoke a little bit of English. We spent six days there and relaxed, travelled around and visited San Sebastian de Compostello.

This is a must. Only a one-hour train ride and you arrive right in the city enter and a short walk from the cathedral, which is breathtaking.

 

Arrival to Den Helder is very easy in all types of weather. It is a Dutch Navy facility, so the entrance is safe and well-marked in all weather. But, Den Helder town was a stop – only worth a small walk, a long sleep and then off we were. We left with the tide early morning, and started to appreciate the sheltered, no tidal waters of Scandinavia. After a couple of hours, we reached the most western of the locks into IJsselmeer and went through without a beep. Marie has rehearsed the whole procedure down to perfection, learned from a gast, Im, which sailed with us a few years back through the canals.

This is also where we officially entered The Standing mast route and from here our draft of 2.35 and our 22.75 m mast height, never gave us a problem all through Holland, until we exited at Breskens.

We were undecided about were to stop in this very big inland sea, with no tidal streams and no waves, so we went to Medemblick for lunch and a walk. It is a quaint little town, which dates back to the golden age of the Netherlands, with a secure outer harbor and a lock to the inner harbor, which is in the city.From Medemblick towards Horn, we had a great sail through a few locks, watching our draft of 2.35 m, and enjoying the afternoon light wind, arriving with the last light.

We had luck in Horn, because we arrived in the middle of a tall ship festival, which made our two-day stay very authentic. Horn is a wealthy city from the medieval age, housing many of the captains on the ships, who travelled the oceans in search for wealth and spices. It is a bit touristic, but it does not hurt the historic experience, when you walk the streets. Many nice small restaurants and a great secure harbor with a view – so what more can a sailor want? Oh, yes of course – great beer from microbreweries.   

After a very pleasant stay, North Star took us further south towards Amsterdam, where we managed to get stuck for the first and only time in Holland at the Schellingwouder Brug, before you enter the delta and the canals, before Amsterdam. We did wait for nearly two hours before we were told about the closure, so it triggered a few ground rules for sailing the Dutch canals. Everybody we spoke to or met was very friendly and very willing to speak English with no hesitance – but they service the commercial traffic – so you as a leisure sailor, you need to take of yourself.

 

1. Bring the booklet – “Nederlandische waterways”.
2. Always investigate opening and closing times a day in advance, when you plan your departure. (The Dutch Waterways site)
3. Share information with the boats around you. They often have information you don’t have.
4. Always make contact on VHF or mobile to the bridge or lock when you arrive and follow up, if they fail to deliver on the first promises. All info are available at ( http://www.varendoejesamen.nl/storage/app/media/brochures/Engels/Staande-Mast-Route-2014-EN.pdf ). I did print a map of the route from internet, in order not to miss a turn – but as we got into the routine, it was easy to follow the flow.

Amsterdam is a great lively city, with a very diverse population. Here is something for everybody. We camped out in Six Haven, which is a great marina in the middle of the city. In retrospect, our 50 feet length was probably at the limit, for entering this marina and a new marina has been built 300 meters downstream, which we only heard great things about. But Six Haven is the original, so we had to go there. We biked the city, which we highly recommend and of course enjoyed all the touristic and cultural offerings. We also met with old friends and after four days of playing tourist, we were ready to continue our journey.

In order to continue on The Standing Mast Route, you have to participate in an official tour through the bridges and locks of the old Amsterdam, which starts around an hour after midnight and continues for 3-4 hours. In the dark, 20+ boats sail silent through the city canals – you can nearly touch the houses and the flowers in their gardens. Two men are using motorbikes to alternate from bridge to bridge to open for us, so waiting time is kept low and finally you exit the city. This is a great experience, and even though we also did it in 2012 – it is very recommendable. The meeting place is just 15 min. south from Six Haven at no. 6 Red Buoy on port and line up is easy – make sure you don’t miss the morning opening time for the big highway bridge at
Schiphol, when you exit Amsterdam

Following a great night sail, the 11/7 turned into a long day to Willemstad, which is a small town, built as a garrison and was used to defend the entrance to the river Schelde. Today it is nice and cozy, with a friendly harbor master and good restaurants.

Late the following day, we sailed to Brunisse to meet our good friends and to see the largest Hallberg Rassy dealership in Europe. ( www.nova-yachting.nl ) Of course, we had a few things we would like to get fixed, before we headed south and we always enjoy visiting Nova Yachting. While Nova replaced the skylights, adjusted our mast and a few other items, we visited old friends in Antwerp, where we lived for three years back in the mid-nineties. It was great to come back and get lost in a city, you thought you remembered. But 20 years did change a lot!

After five wonderful days where North Star was pampered and we enjoyed time on land, it was time to leave. On the 16^th, we left with the tide through the locks towards Breskens and further to Neuwport in the English Canal. Not much to remember from either the marinas or the sail, except the 4-6 meter tide, which made for very uninviting marinas at low tide.
But on the morning of the 18^{th of July}, we were ready to cross the much talked about, English Canal. At this point we were prepared for everything! It turned out to be a very pleasant crossing in light winds and we only met 10-15 container ships, which very kindly showed up on our AIS and radar. We even had the pleasure that some of them adapted course and speed on our route to Dover. Late afternoon we saw the White Cliffs of Dover in the horizon and this was when we both realized – we are finally in unfamiliar waters and the adventure is well underway.

We called Dover Harbor on VHF channel 12 and were kindly received and directed into the Marina at VHF channel 8, in the eastern part of the harbor. You have a choice, whether you want to stay outside the locks or inside, depending on how early you depart in the mornin

Dover
was our first meeting with rural south England A difficult meeting with an area, which is hurt badly by high unemployment and lack of general development. But we spent time seeing some of the remainders of the great fight UK put up during the second world war and enjoyed the historic parts of the town.

On the 18^th, we were off again with the early tide to Eastbourne, where we spent a couple of days in a nice vacation city under development. Easy entrance at all tides and the marina is brand new and well protected behind a lock and surrounded with many restaurants.

Finally, early on the 21^st, we were on our way to Isle of White and Cowes. A 100 nm day sail with great winds and plenty of navigational challenges along the way. But Cowes have been very high on my wish list for many years. It is a sailing mekka for boats, from all over Europe – there are races every weekend during the season. We arrived early evening and had some difficulties finding a place to moor because of the racing events. But after a little while, we did find a mooring on the outside of the second marina on the Cowes side, with easy access to the town and the plentiful restaurants, pubs and sailing shops – what a great destination.

We enjoyed bicycling and walking on the island and waited for Sunday the 24^th, when Michaela and Kristian arrived. Michaela was to sail with us for 5 weeks and Kristian to sail with us to Coruna, across the feared Bay of Biscay. Unfortunately, he only made it to Brest, but more about that later.

In Cowes we also met with Colin and Belinda – sailing friends from The Baltic Arc in 2014. It was a very very nice day we spent together and here seven months later, we learned the importance of living in the moment, as Colin was buried on the 7^th of March,  after a brief three weeks’ illness with a terminal brain tumor – we miss him so very much and his appetite for life, adventure, and sailing.

 

 

24.6 Departure from Rungsted to Amaliehaven, København

A truely wonderful day where Marie and I were running around trying to be ready to leave – for Copenhagen. No not far, but our backup for picking up stuff we had forgotten and our goodby to OUR girls Alexandra and Michaela.

Thanks very much to the many people who came to say goodby although we did have a great farewell parties two weeks before – thanks to you all, it was very nice to be seen off.

1515 we went to the diesel tank and filled our two 450 liter tanks to the top – a good day for the kiosk… Erik gave us last minutes help with an oil basket, and then suddenly of we went – and the girls were kind enough to sail with us into Copenhagen.

The day after we celebrated Alexandras graduation and we were and are very proud. Sunday was more goodbyes and Monday I had a board meeting and then suddenly –  it was time.

27.6 Amaliehaven to Gedser Marina

0700 we departed and Michaela was at the pier to say goodby. It was so sweet and nice, but I will never forget how alone she was looking as she was standing on the pier disappearing in the horisont. It was great to get under way, but somehow kids leave their parents and not the other way around. Fortunately she came to spend a month aboard North Star only six weeks later and we have been returning on a regular basis.

Finally arrival to Gedser after a day with the wind on the nose and a day where the day goal was 120 nautical miles – so
we used the engine a lot. When the last light disappeared we sneaked into the narrow channel and moored outside a german sailor.

28.6 Gedser til Kiel Olympic Hafen

Departure 0600 passing by the ingoing ferrie and a course towards Kiel, with a bit of tacking in the short and step waves you often find in the Baltic. Be careful of the many bouyes which can be confusing and of course the ferries.

It was a rainy and windy day, but a wonderful day for sailing. North Star enjoy finally to use the sails. Marie and I was also fine with the weather, as late June means – soon it will be summer. Unfortunately it did take quit some time this year – but we were on our way south. Late afternoon we arrived through a marvellous view of many sails in the Kieler Bay, into the Kiel Olympic Sports Hafen. It is an easy entry from the east, even though the entry is hard to spot. It is a large  marina where guest boats moor alongside, with all services and a very friendly Harbour master.

30.6 Kiel Olympic SportsHafen til Rendsburg

We are excited,  finally being on our way, but we have seen it all before. Even the Kieler Canal is handled by Marie with elegancy, up the stairs. Until she realises that this time the crossing is free, as an earlier accident have made them decide to forbid pleasure sailors to climb out of the Locks. Beware to lower your fenders into the water, and then the hight will be just right.

We arrived in the inner marina in Rendsburg early afternoon and had a nice dinner in the Marina – good restaurant and helpful marina staff. Even washing of clothes, was taken care of.

Next morning we were early risers, as Marie had promised to be my tour guide for the day. After the initial shopping, we found the tourist information and the blue trail, which took us around in this old Danish Garnisons town. It was very educational to be reminded about the greatness
of our forefathers attempt, building the Danish Kingdom much bigger than today. But also to get a glimpse of the blindfolded nationalism, which led us into the war of 1849 and the devastating blow in 1864, where we lost all dreams of being a greater power in Europe. Herunder also Rendsburg, which now is very much German. We met a guide in the Garnison Church, who gave us a history lesson I will seldom forget. Not only about the Church, but also about Frederik the 7^th and the long military tradition in Rendburg. It is a pleasure to be positively surprised every time you meet new people and have the time available to enjoy.

01.7 Rendsburg to Cuxhafen

When we went into Rendsburg, we saw an Amel 54 registered in Guernsey and now on its way to Cuxhaven so we passed them and chatted about future plans. We did have the same route and as often, without a conscious decision you decide to tack along and learn from each other. It turns out that Callisto, skippered by Mike and his wife Ann had been on a tour around the world, which took them seven years. For us ruggies who just started, it was a very deep weld to dig into. So we were very social during our days in Cuxhaven and we hope to meet again, as they are still fulltime cruisers. This time on their way to La Rochelle for a refit.

Cuxhaven is a typical German town at the bank of Elben, just trying to get along. They do maintain and ageing fishing fleet and at the same time they are trying to build up a number of attractions for the tourists. It was nice to be their waiting for the weather, but if you pass it, you do not miss much.

The Marina is spacious and well protected, with a restaurant and a helpfull staff. We did not need any services, but I was told it is easy to get help for the preparation to pass the German Bight.

04.7 Cuxhafen to Den Helder

Finally Marie and I was ready to test ourselves and North Star in the notorious troublesome water called the German Bight, which is attracting all lows moving north. It is also a combination of deeper waters meeting the lows of the Friesland islands, giving a sailor confused waves. The days passed with waiting and the analysis of the weather on Passage weather, Pocket Grib and Predict wind in the four different weather models. The conclusion was clear, if we wanted to go south and not wait for another week, we had to leave with the tide at 0400 and so we did, even though the window was a little short and closing. Afterwards I do think that the route going NW to Helgoland and then south to Den Helder is the better choice at least for the wind angle!

We motored out of Elben and then sailed for a few hours, until the wind completely died, fully in line with our forecast. The swell was around two meters, so even motoring was a little uncomfortable. Later in the afternoon we expected wind from west up to 15 knots and building seas, but nothing we could not handle. Unfortunately together with the darkness the wind start to build and went into the twenties right on the nose and as usual when we turned the corner at Vliesland going south west the wind followed. The Goods were not looking too favorable on us, trying to challenge them. So they rewarded us with a sail through the night with with 3-4 meters of waves, 20 degrees to the wind with stormsail supported with the engine for the rest of the night, until we arrived in Den Helder around mid afternoon, six hours later than planned…..very wet and tired. Afterwards it turns out that we were the lucky ones, because Callisto, motoring slightly slower than North Star never made it around the Vliesland corner, as the surprising storm increased in force. They were forced to go into shelter, behind Vliesland in the dark and at low water – not a pleasant experience. We never met again as we left Den Helder and they took the North Sea route to Guernsey.

The German Bight was a great lesson for Marie and I, building our confidence in North Star and ourselves. We were tired, but never in trouble and North Star took it all in strides, except being submarine for that long exposed every leak in the boat and replacement of all skylights, was put on the to do list.
I have to rapport although, that it is important that skipper sleeps plentiful, because as we entered Den Helder, which is a very important Dutch Marine harbour with lots of warship, skipper was navigating after a very speciel moving buoy, which turned to be the tower of a sub marine – something co-skipper Marie remembered for a long time.

We are creating this site to share information about the rewards and the challenges involved in navigating a sailboat around in the world. We have been sailing the last 30 years, and have sailed further and further ashore. In the beginning it was Øresund in Denmark, then Kattegat and soon we moved on to The Atlantic, while we lived in USA. During the years of preparing ourselves and  S/Y North Star the third, we learned from fellow sailors experiences and it is our hope we can give some of that back to other people which follow their dream.

It all started with a dream and a very young man putting together a list of dreams with things to aspire for. Dreaming about a life with freedom and adventures and fortunately he met a girl who was dreaming even bigger. Sail around the world was one of these dreams and trying to finance the dream, before you reached high age and illness, was another.

This is about the world adventure, which have been prepared for during many years. The weekly readings of cruising magazines, the dinner conversations about the dream, the statement in Sydney of: “next time we arrive here it is by a sailboat”. Probably the first tangible action was the acquisition of a small 7 meters sailboat in 1992, a MAXI 68. Maybe not fancy, but certainly a great boat to learn the tricks of sailing a keelboat with a small family of three. It was my first real sailing experience as captain and Marie was so kind never to say that she was a little uncomfortable with my lack of experience – but together we learned by making mistakes in a small forgiving sailboat. But that is another story.

Later we moved up into a danish build Faurby 36 – a real sailing machine and sailing her in the atlantic waters around Boston, New Hampshire, Cap Cod and Maine moved everything to a very different level. Trillemus was her name, and she had been around the world and was probably ready for another tour, but today she sails out of Horta in the Azores and we bought our first Hallberg Rassy – a 39. She determined in so many ways our sailing destiny. She was very comfortable and the girls suddenly liked being away and onboard for longer periods, she was steady in larger seas and took us further away from home and she was unbreakable. She was followed by a Hallberg Rassy 43, same – same, just bigger and better sailing qualities and finally we arrived in the HR 48 we sail today. Looking back, the journey from simple and small to increasingly complicated to very complicated and technically challenging was the right learning  process – even though it was not planned like this, from the out spring. To sail a modern 50 feet boat, with all technical installations such as navigation tools, hydraulics, freezer, water maker, aircondition, generator and much more, put a great demand on the crew. You need to learn to fix and learn that some functionality is need to have and others are nice to have – and follow your maintenance schedules very closely. This way you can continue to enjoy sailing and not be focused on all the stuff which does not work and keep you in marinas, waiting for spares. Because it is all about being out their, enjoying the freedom!